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Routes in East Juni
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Balaam's Ass T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Big Boy Biff S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Day of Delight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Display of Splendor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Divine Appointment S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ethic of Eden S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Morning and Evening S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prince of Preachers T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Spiritual Wingman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Burdon & Cam Spies, 2024 |
| Page Views: | 45 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | MAKB on Jun 24, 2024 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Divine Appointment is a nice, new, multi-pitch sport climb with a 30 second approach!
Approach: the best option is to locate the top of the climb and do 2 rappels to the base of the climb. Alternatively, you can scramble down from the base of the other sport climbs at East Juni. It's mostly 3rd Class with one very exposed 4th Class section.
P1 (5.8) - 34m - climb up a well-protected face to a ledge. Enter a clean face off the ledge before riding the exposed arete up to the ledge and a 2 bolt belay. Mild runouts can be mitigated by slinging a tree and/or placing a couple mid-sized nuts, 7 bolts.
P2 (5.10) - 25m - move up through a cryptic face sequence trending up and right. Then move straight up on perfect, crispy crimps and into some wild exposure. This is a very interesting pitch from bottom to top! 6 bolts.
The route is brand new and may have a bit of loose rock still, so climb with caution.
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