Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 48.71461, -121.95957
FA: Alex Pederson, Zack Williams, Spencer Moore, June 22, 2024
Page Views: 155 total · 7/month
Shared By: Spencer Moore on Jun 24, 2024
Admins: Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

Take some obvious route-finding errors and go climb the choss heap to the left of the Mythic Wall but never succumb to the temptation of fully stepping over to the Green Creek Arête. What started out as an embarrassing miscalculation ended as a delightful alpine romp. Be advised, the rock quality on this route is questionable and in some instances life threatening. Test all the holds with gusto, and beware the flakes to the left of P4, they are very very precarious. There are a surprising amount of hand cracks on this route, and all of them are of better than expected quality. 

P1: 4th to low 5th class. Simul climb 65m of choss ramp moving left to 5 meters of a baggy finger crack around 5.6 

P2: 5.9 55m. 10m of blocky climbing traversing right to a finger crack. A small downward sloping triangle block guards the only feet before the finger crack. Two hard finger moves lead to a layback and mantle, protected with a black totem and small nut. Move up and right to a hand and fist crack containing smooth serpentinite and fault scour. Pull through a small overhanging move and mantle again. Trend left to another hand crack nestled in a right facing corner for a decent gear anchor on a ledge with a small bush.

P3: 5.7 30m. Follow the hand crack at the base of the belay ledge to a small tree. Move right and up a blocky crack system to a bigger tree with a good belay stance at the base of yet another hand crack.

P4: 5.8+ 30m PG. This is probably the most fun pitch of the entire route. Great movement off the deck leads to a crack system that narrows as it moves up. The flakes peter out to a crimpy rail with slopers, with a committing mantle move for a finisher. Halfway up the pitch are three truck bed sized flakes loosely stacked on top of each other. Careful, these are widow-makers and will absolutely kill your belayer if disturbed. 

P5: 5.7 15m A fun stemming corner and offwidth lead to a roof with thin hands. Protects well with some ringlock to hand sized pieces. Top out at a slung tree that marks a rap station for the Green Creek Arête.

P6: 5.6 finish with the 5.6 crux of the Green Creek Arête

Location Suggest change

Follow the directions to the Mythic Wall and then start too far left on the big left leaning ramp. 

Protection Suggest change

Double rack to #2, nuts, some hand sized hexes. Many of the anchors will eat the hand sized cams you will want for pro on lead. Two anchors are built on bomber tree placements, tat or long slings can be very useful as well.

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