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Lichen Juggin'
5.6,
Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
FA: unknown
Pennsylvania
> S Central PA
> Susquehanna Riv…
> 7. Gibraltar (M…
> 2. Pixel Wall
Access Issue: Choss and Access
Details
WARNING: Due to the minimal mileage this crag has seen over the decades expect to encounter choss and bring a helmet. Lines clean up with enough traffic, similar to how Chickies, Gunks or Seneca have cleaned up, but they do not get that way right away. Be cautious and consider top roping (or at least top rope or rappel inspect) a line first.
This is a lead access crag. Most anchors must be led in order to be used. There are a few that can facilitate rappels. Do not cut trail to get to the top of the cliffs.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Description
Start up a ledgy ramp system to the base of a chimney gully. Pop up through this till you hit a 20' dirt ramp. Place a piece or sling a tree and move up to the next chimney system that's a bit overgrown. Instead of fighting up this, take the left face of the chimney and work up till a landing. Trending slightly left and under a tree. Trust some iffy foot blocks and end the first pitch on a large ledge. From here trend up and right through a roof. Then on incut juggy edges dusted with lichen. Follow the sparse gear and make some funky mantles to finish this climb out. Gear anchor can be easily built below the main summit, climbers right side of the summit.
Location
Right side of the pixel wall. Partway up the gully with Sentinel at your back.
Starts right at the base of a tree. This tree marks the divide between the end of Pixel wall and Hanging Gardens.
Protection