Wherever I may Loam
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Shawn Sweeney Summer '22 |
Page Views: | 110 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Shawn S on Jun 7, 2024 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
An airy slab climb that rides the lip of the quadratic cave. Enjoying the sunset view of north bend from this wall in late spring-summer is one of the best ways I can think to spend a date night after work. The route is named for its much taller less fuzzy big cousin down in Smith, both have fun left angling traverse where the wall drops away underneath.
You can climb this route as one long mega pitch, 70m rope required, knot your ends, or utilize the ledge atop the cave to practice multi pitch. Having the follower clean is convenient, watch out for the cave lip if you choose to clean on a lower. Pretty sure there are 15 bolts total in both pitches, several alpine draws are nice to reduce drag.
P1 5.8, Start in the broken crack right of the bulge climb up and leftward around the bulge to a hole. First 2 bolts are shared with P1 of Scrub Club. Continue up and left on the exposed lip of the cave through good holds. Gain a belay ledge to a 2 hanger anchor (no lowers here). Out left of the ledge is a set of rings for a fun free hanging rappel if you need to bail here. . Can be done as 1 pitch, belaying from the ledge atop of p1 is a decent option & have the follower clean on the way up.
P1 (Direct Option) 5.10-, Climb the dirty loose wide crack for a couple bolts to some jugs at a hole, go left and join the route
P2 5.9,From the ledge climb the leftmost bolt line to the top, a balancey bit guards the jugs before the chains. Use the left anchor at the top if peeps are on fissure. You can also climb Scrub Club P2 (5.10+) from the ledge instead to add some difficulty, this is the right bolt line off the ledge.
Enjoy the views!
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