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Lichen Them Funky Beats

5.10, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
FA: Jason and Bennett
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Wildcat Complex > Music Mountain

Description

P1. This was initially completely covered in lichen but is now mostly clean. Climb up a few bolts to a small ledge, continue up a crack system to a much smaller ledge, then up some mixed crack and face moves to the anchor.

P2. The crux pitch. Move off the anchor up to the left towards a small overhanging crack with some good hand and foot holds. Continue further to the crux of the pitch. Pull the overhanging roof, clip a bolt, move onto the face, and do a moderately awkward mantel-type move. Cruise to the anchor with a large deck and a nice shade tree.

P3. A short pitch to avoid rope drag. Traverse left off the anchor to a very large deck, then clip a few bolts up to the anchor. This pitch could likely be linked with P4, but there would be a fair bit of rope drag.

P4. This has a super cruiser alpine'ish feel to the anchor. It is a fun romp to the end of the climb.

When at the anchor on top of P4, look up, and see the top of the mountain. A quick scramble up solid rock gets you to the top.

*NOTE* when rappelling, be sure to clip the fixed draw on P4, otherwise a slip would mean a nasty swing. P2 also has a fixed draw to keep your rope out of the crack when rapping.

Location

Get to the start of the wall, and head climber's right. Pass Riders On The Storm and Kingston Town, then head a bit further until you see a short fixed line. Scramble up the line, duck under the tree, and continue on another ~30 feet. The base of the climb is just to the left of a small tree.

Protection

A 70m rope, anchors, 11-12 quickdraws, some alpine draws, and a helmet.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

All of P1 and P2.
[Hide Photo] All of P1 and P2.
A view of the entire route.
[Hide Photo] A view of the entire route.
Fantastic views!
[Hide Photo] Fantastic views!
Cruising up P4.
[Hide Photo] Cruising up P4.
Bennet on top of the P2 crux.
[Hide Photo] Bennet on top of the P2 crux.
Another view of the P2 crux.
[Hide Photo] Another view of the P2 crux.
The P2 anchor.  The P3 anchor is kind of visible around the corner.
[Hide Photo] The P2 anchor. The P3 anchor is kind of visible around the corner.
The P2 crux.
[Hide Photo] The P2 crux.
P2 from the anchor on top of P1.
[Hide Photo] P2 from the anchor on top of P1.
P1 and P2 from the start.
[Hide Photo] P1 and P2 from the start.
Start at this deck here after ducking under the tree.
[Hide Photo] Start at this deck here after ducking under the tree.
The start of the route.
[Hide Photo] The start of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Lukas
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] My sister did take the nasty swing rappelling from the top of this (she'll be ok but did get pretty hurt). Aside from that, it's also pretty ledgy and has a ton of shrubs, so there's a lot of potential to get your rope stuck. I'd recommend rappelling down a different way, or just finishing this climb after pitch 2. The best climbing by far was on pitch 2. Sep 30, 2025