Lichen Them Funky Beats
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 38.78211, -108.66173 |
| FA: | Jason and Bennett |
| Page Views: | 241 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | J Premo on May 30, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
P1. This was initially completely covered in lichen but is now mostly clean. Climb up a few bolts to a small ledge, continue up a crack system to a much smaller ledge, then up some mixed crack and face moves to the anchor.
P2. The crux pitch. Move off the anchor up to the left towards a small overhanging crack with some good hand and foot holds. Continue further to the crux of the pitch. Pull the overhanging roof, clip a bolt, move onto the face, and do a moderately awkward mantel-type move. Cruise to the anchor with a large deck and a nice shade tree.
P3. A short pitch to avoid rope drag. Traverse left off the anchor to a very large deck, then clip a few bolts up to the anchor. This pitch could likely be linked with P4, but there would be a fair bit of rope drag.
P4. This has a super cruiser alpine'ish feel to the anchor. It is a fun romp to the end of the climb.
When at the anchor on top of P4, look up, and see the top of the mountain. A quick scramble up solid rock gets you to the top.
*NOTE* when rappelling, be sure to clip the fixed draw on P4, otherwise a slip would mean a nasty swing. P2 also has a fixed draw to keep your rope out of the crack when rapping.
Location
Get to the start of the wall, and head climber's right. Pass Riders On The Storm and Kingston Town, then head a bit further until you see a short fixed line. Scramble up the line, duck under the tree, and continue on another ~30 feet. The base of the climb is just to the left of a small tree.



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