Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

South Side

5.2, Trad, 300 ft (91 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Regency
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Hidden beneath the southern ridge of Regency and above its lichen-encrusted southern flank lies 150 feet of clean, featured slab. This route is a short but enjoyable alternative to El Camino Royale, reminiscent in spirit and in obscurity to South Sneak on the Second Flatiron. This route has been climbed in the past by a few Regency explorers but never catalogued on MP.

The south side of Regency is best begun by doing the water-worn jugs at the start of El Camino Royale, then cutting left up an obvious weakness and through a gap on the lower southern ridge. The standalone route begins here by making a few moves through broken rock before gaining the main slab. Continue directly upwards onto the main face, staying where the route feels easiest. The difficulty varies slightly depending on the line chosen between the large, left-facing corner and the arete, the latter offering better exposure. With sound routefinding, the difficulty stays at or below 5.2 with crux moves only marginally harder than El Camino Royale.

The slab tapers at its peak into a final narrow passage leading to fourth class terrain beneath the summit. The rock quality does deteriorate slightly towards the end, partially marred with lichen. From here, continue to the summit via any logical path, or continue straight ahead and down to the cave that leads to the base of Royal Arch.

Location

Approach as for all routes on Regency. The best approach is by climbing the beginning water-worn jug section of El Camino Royale, then cutting left over the southern ridge. To approach by trail only, continue on the trail upwards past the cutoff for El Camino Royale and left of the lichen-covered lower southern flank of Regency. Take a cutoff on the right hand side of the trail that leads beneath the overhang of the flank, and continue upwards until you reach the large, left-facing corner beneath which sits the route.

Protection

Minimal placements are available on the route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

An overview of Regency's south side.
[Hide Photo] An overview of Regency's south side.
The route as seen from the base.
[Hide Photo] The route as seen from the base.
Looking down at the start of Matriarch.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the start of Matriarch.
A Matriarch overview with access via El Camino Royale or the trail.
[Hide Photo] A Matriarch overview with access via El Camino Royale or the trail.
The Matriarch exit as seen from the summit.
[Hide Photo] The Matriarch exit as seen from the summit.
The upper slab and the crux of the route.
[Hide Photo] The upper slab and the crux of the route.
Fantastic rock textures on the route.
[Hide Photo] Fantastic rock textures on the route.