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Sneak Attack

5.8, Sport,  Avg: 3.1 from 25 votes
FA: Miranda Soule
Illinois > Ferne Clyffe &… > Ferne Clyffe SP > E: Goreville Theatre

Description

Start on the Goreville Theater Ledge. Stem your way up to find many large pockets, underclings and side pulls. The name arose from a hornets nest around the corner of the arete. Occasionally while bolting a hornet would sneak around the corner to find me.

Location

The left most route, left of Pig Farm

Protection

6 bolts and mussy hooks

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Sneak Attack
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Andrew Olivier
 
[Hide Comment] Great route overall. Go straight up the face for maximum value and a good feel for Ferne Clyffe grading and climbing style. Very well protected, but still classy protection, like everything I climbed at Ferne Clyffe.

Might also be a great lead for a new-ish sport leader because you can retreat into the corner. I went into the corner on my first climb which was very secure. Clips are still reachable for 5'11 in the corner until maybe the last bolt before the anchor. Perhaps going all the way into the chimney is an easier variation? Oct 7, 2024