Indra's Net

A thriller of a climb on Galaxy Buttress up the Star Chek River Wall in a high-octane atmosphere. This is a 5.10/11 world of smooth, compact rock with an amazing line of weakness up sustained fingery edges and rails, creating the longest sport 5.8/5.9 multi-pitch face in Sea to Sky. The wall faces southwest and is an afternoon suntrap with a long season from early March to late October. Route finding is easy, just follow the bolts, but competence is required. Belays are small stances good for two climbers, cozy for three. Pitches vary from 18-25 metres with 5-7 bolts each, and all very photogenic. Many thanks are due to the Sea to Sky Bolt Fund (Peter Winter) which provided a considerable amount of hardware for this climb. To High Col for other expenses, and the Squamish Sport Climbs guidebook for its complete reference to Cheakamus Gorge climbs.

P1. (5.9) Start 1m right of Star Chek. Move up to the left edge of a triangular roof and tip-toe across its lip to the arete. Nice moves lead to a hidden ledge. Move out right into a new world on the river wall and a small stance. (A mid-pitch station is on the hidden ledge for those who need it.)

P2. (5.8) Climb directly up to a steepening, move right across it on edgy rails to a shallow, broken groove line, and up it to a narrow ledge.

P3. (5.9) Crux pitch. Move up a ramp to the start of a sustained fingery traverse across the open wall and a final step down onto a small airy ledge at its far right side. Exposed and exciting.

P4. (5.9) Climb the shallow groove above to a position below a significant bulge. Pull through to better holds at its top, then a few face moves lead off right to a small ledge in a spectacular position.

P5. (5.8) Move back left into fingery climbing up a crusty little dyke followed by 12 metres of shark-fin glory jugs up the steepest part of the entire climb to finish on a good ledge. A short mid-5th scramble up a groove leads to the rope-off ledges.

The original 1995 northside exit trail has been restored, and is just 2 pleasant minutes to the highway.

Indra's Net is approached by the Star Chek trail, from the Cheakamus Canyon picnic area parking on the west (northbound) side of Highway 99, 26km north of Squamish. The first pitch starts just one metre right of Star Chek. Descent is from the top of the climb to the highway, then a 5 minutes walk back to the parking along the highway-side trail.