Type: Boulder, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 135 total · 14/month
Shared By: Joseph Crotty on May 23, 2024
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The Vampire climbs a classic and rare finger crack on a slightly overhanging, polished wall. Begin low left in the crack a few feet below the first horizontal break in the crack. Work through some polished foot holds to better hand holds. The middle section serves up a few tenuous finger jams that constitute the crux. Gather yourself for the topout, which though not as difficult must be executed deftly as a fall is not advised.

This is the same climb as Sabbath Bloody Sabbath done as a boulder problem.

Location Suggest change

It is in the main Ice Cave. Upon entering the Ice Caves from the west and traveling east up canyon, it lies along the left wall. It climbs an unmistakable, diagonal finger crack ascending from left-to-right that tops out near a partially obscured, fin-shaped feature.

Protection Suggest change

Tarps (i.e., the ice floor is always wet) and lots of pads due to the traverse nature of the crack, the highball finish, and the often undulating ice floor that constitutes the landing area.

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