Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Sean Willett, Heather Reynolds - 1992
Page Views: 58 total · 7/month
Shared By: Max Seward on May 8, 2024
Admins: Will Bland, Greg Hughes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb the slab on the "top" of the gargoyle overhang. Start in crack system and traverse up and left on good holds. You are aiming for the chains at the top of gargoyle. The crux is a few tenuous moves, traversing over the lip with low feet changing from one crack system, reaching far left to get the crack that will take you up. You'll end up at the chains for Gargoyle. From here, head up and slightly further left to stay on the left underside of the arete. Follow the arete to a topout ledge- and anchor. you can't really see this from below but as of May 2024 there is a set of rings on the right side of the ledge to belay and rap from. 

Recommend having your second follow up behind due to traversing nature as opposed to trying to set a TR . The wandery nature makes this route a weird onsight (just stay left) but it has a nice position over the lake and interesting moves, worth doing at the grade. 

May 2024- It appears an important hand hold has broken off crux section recently. Adds a bit of tension and reachy-ness to the crux  and probably goes slightly harder than 5.7 (especially in modern grading). This section protects well with nuts and smallish cams though, and you have the option to clip the gargoyle anchor after the crux.

Location Suggest change

Gargoyle area, on the slab to the right of / over the top of gargoyle if you're facing the cliff. 

Protection Suggest change

G gear, up to #1

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