PRINT: Rock Climb Mingus, Red River Gorge

Mingus

5.10d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 41 votes
FA: John Bain, May 2024
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Great Wall

Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve Details

Officially known as Muir Valley Climbing Area and a Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.

Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:

All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Description

This climb starts in the same alcove as Weapons of Mass Deception on the far left side of the Great Wall. The first bolt is inside the alcove on the right hand wall. Move right at bolt onto face. The climb starts moderately and becomes progressively harder with an exciting but well protected step over move over the void below.

Location

At the left side of the Great Wall. Make a left when the trail meets the wall.

Protection

9 bolts and anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Katherine moving up onto thinner holds.

Katherine starting up the face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peepaw Chossy

5.10d

Really fun and technical slab route. I was able to onsight on a rather warm day in June despite many holds being super sandy. Felt a little light for 11a but may have just been my height and preferred style of climbing. I spent a good 20 minutes brushing sand as I was lowering so hopefully those who climb it after me can look forward to cleaner grabs than I got. I think as this route sees more traffic the grade will fall into the high 10s. Very well protected, maybe even too well, but would be a good first 11a lead because of it. Super fun and a good way to get away from the chaos typically found in the main section of Great Wall. Oct 10, 2024

Chris Decker
Morrow, OH

An excellent addition to Great Wall. A route that is uncharacteristic for the red, but a fun change of pace. The crossover move stepping over the void is the highlight for me. Use the arete and high feet to get to the top. A couple of juggy pockets on this route will make your day. Oct 22, 2024