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Routes in 3. Battlements
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Dance of Sender's Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Half Gallon T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Literary Masterpiece that is Chicka Chicka Boom Boom, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Man Chippy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sender Bravo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Soarangutan T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stemwinder T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ultra Squeaky Teak T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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University of Chippy T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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University's Library T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 40.05675, -76.63677 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 131 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Borton on Apr 30, 2024 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: Choss and Access
Details
WARNING: Due to the minimal mileage this crag has seen over the decades expect to encounter choss and bring a helmet. Lines clean up with enough traffic, similar to how Chickies, Gunks or Seneca have cleaned up, but they do not get that way right away. Be cautious and consider top roping (or at least top rope or rappel inspect) a line first.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Description
Climb the obvious arete topped by a large roof with a "V" notch . About 1/3 of the way up move right onto the left face of the dihedral. Place gear in a horizontal. Step up, then move back onto the arete. This is the first crux.
Continue up the arete to a slabby finish under the roof. Not much for your feet. This is the second crux.
Move left under the roof. Smears for your feet. Look up to find a jug at the lip. It's a half gallon, not a full gallon. Still, it's good enough. Work your left foot up, then high step with your right onto the jug. This is the third crux.
Continue up the headwall to a nice ledge.
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