PRINT: Rock Climb Broken Compass, 1. Southern Mountains Region

Broken Compass

5.10a/b R, Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: David Lackey, Max Wiggins 2024
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Stone Depot

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

P1: Carefully climb up to a downward facing flake, and then up through friction moves to a bolt. Follow the groove through another crux, clip a bolt, and then wander up and slightly left to the anchors. 115’ 5.10 R ish

Alternate Start: (The Compass Connector)Climb the first pitch of NBNW and then a traverse pitch over to the start of p2. Could make for a sweet long moderate option, or would get a top rope on P1. 5.easy

P2: Climb up through an assortment of flakes, knobs, corners, grooves and slab to another bolted anchor. If continuing on, consider climbing past the anchors to a gear belay on larger cams about 30’ higher. 5.7 115/140’

P3: Climb up a right facing corner/ramp, and pull the bulge on good holds and gear. Hoping to add a last anchor in the bowl, but until then, wander towards the trees. 5.8 150/110’ (An alternate P3 would be to trend left and finish on the second to last pitch of NBNW)

Decent: P1 and 2 can be rapped with a single 70

Location

In between Sunstroke Serenade and North By Northwest. Start is located on a ledge above the trail.

Protection

Bolted ground up. Single rack including tricams, with doubles in hand sized cams for the gear belay

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Addie headed up p2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Wiggins

5.10a/b R

P3 now has a set of anchors and got a scrub. Go get it Mar 11, 2025