Broken Compass
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Type: | Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | David Lackey, Max Wiggins 2024 |
Page Views: | 160 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Max Wiggins on Apr 29, 2024 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
P1: Carefully climb up to a downward facing flake, and then up through friction moves to a bolt. Follow the groove through another crux, clip a bolt, and then wander up and slightly left to the anchors. 115’ 5.10 R ish
Alternate Start: (The Compass Connector)Climb the first pitch of NBNW and then a traverse pitch over to the start of p2. Could make for a sweet long moderate option, or would get a top rope on P1. 5.easy
P2: Climb up through an assortment of flakes, knobs, corners, grooves and slab to another bolted anchor. If continuing on, consider climbing past the anchors to a gear belay on larger cams about 30’ higher. 5.7 115/140’
P3: Climb up a right facing corner/ramp, and pull the bulge on good holds and gear. Hoping to add a last anchor in the bowl, but until then, wander towards the trees. 5.8 150/110’ (An alternate P3 would be to trend left and finish on the second to last pitch of NBNW)
Decent: P1 and 2 can be rapped with a single 70
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