Steep 5.8+ Exit
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad |
FA: | ?? |
Page Views: | 136 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Reed Welsh on Apr 29, 2024 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Done every other exit on school rock and want a more engaging finish? Right in the middle of the steep section of rock between the Kindergarten Crack exit and the Mary's Crack Exit there is a very nice third option. Do any of the starting pitches of Mary's Crack, or Kindergarten Right or Left and aim for the vertical crack in the middle of the steep section. Finish the first pitch about 30 feet below the crack and set an anchor (lots of good options here). From here follow the vertical seam that dies before the steep section then step left to the base of the vertical crack. From here follow jugs and finger and hand jams up to the final bulge. A serries of flaring hand jams will pull you over the lip where a hidden horizontal crack jug awaits. After pulling the lip continue up and slightly right on the featured slab to another right facing corner. You can either build an anchor at the next corner after this one or use the tree above it to finish the pitch. This was a very fun way to finish school rock and the slab above the steep section was more fun than any other finish. Could be a good way to avoid crowds on a busy day also.
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