PRINT: Rock Climb A Good Shepherd Brings Desperate Men, West Desert

A Good Shepherd Brings Desperate Men

5.9, Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: James Garrett and Kelly MacLeod, 11 April 2002
Utah > W Desert > Ibex > Sheep Rock Area

Description

Very fun line. Recommend doing this as a single pitch but bring some long slings to reduce rope drag, especially at the bolt on left-facing wall in corner below roof. Another bolt just over lip of roof protects the airy crux. In between is juggy fun moving out below roof.

If you decide to split it up:

P1. 5.8. Belay well below roof on big ledge. 3 bolts plus gear. 20 m.

P2. 5.9. Up left into corner and over roof then through a few face moves and up to anchor. 2 bolts plus gear. 20 m.

Location

A few meters left of the obvious top-to-bottom defile that is Y2K Crackdown.

Protection

5 bolts total and very small to medium cams and nuts. Some long slings. Chain anchor at very top, so can walk off or 2 raps get you to the ground; mid-wall anchor aligns very nicely with fall line from top anchor.