PRINT: Rock Climb Born in Time, Okanogan

Born in Time

5.10b/c, Sport, 755 ft (229 m), 9 pitches,

Avg: 3.1 from 21 votes
FA: Annette Daniels, Jerry Daniels, 2024
Washington > Okanogan > Mazama > Goat Wall

Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama Details

From the MVC:
The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.

From the USFS:
When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets.
Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.

Description

Pitches:

P1, 5.6: Scramble to a ledge belay (100’, 6 bolts)

P2, 5.7: Climb up overlapping sections trending right with several bulges to belay (100’, 9 bolts)

P3, 5.9: Step left from belay and climb fun face that first trends left and then right to belay over the lip (80’, 10 bolts)

P4, 5.8: Continue up slabby terrain to belay (90’, 5 bolts)

P5, 5.7: Alpine feeling pitch with a tricky face start to ledge trending right along wall to belay (125’, 10 bolts)

P6, 5.7: make blocky moves finishing below short face (70’, 7 bolts)

P7, 5.8: Bouldery start to easy terrain trends right to base of headwall (50’, 4 bolts)

P8, 5.10a: For the purpose of easing communication and belaying the second, this pitch is broken down below into P8.1 and P8.2 with an intermediate anchor in the middle. (140’)

P8, 10a: Directly tackle the yellow crystal block that lean left unlocking the positive holds and tricky movement to a corner then climb to an intermediate anchor (70’, 7 bolts)

P9, 5.8: Head up to the final anchor (70’, 5 bolts)

*bolt numbers may be +/-1, the developers indicate that 16 draws should be carried on this route

Descent:

Rap 1: Short rap from the top to the top anchor of P8

Rap 2: Rap to chains rappeller’s left slightly below the start of P7

Rap 3: Rap straight down to rappeller’s left of the bolt line, left of a few trees, over a lip to the rap anchor

Rap 4: Rap straight down to rejoin the bolt line at the top anchor of P4

Rap 5-8: Rap the reminder of the route to the ground

Location

Follow the trail for the Methow Inspiration Route until nearly the top of the trail. Veer right to a small fixed line, then follow the trail to the start of P1.

Small fixed line over ledge: 48.61922, -120.44669
Start of P1: 48.61928, -120.44636

Protection

60m rope, 16 draws, helmet

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo of the route from the approach

Pitch 3, 5.9 Face

P8 crux moves. It's as funky as it looks, unsure how best to climb it. It's well bolted though, every 4 feet.

Pitch 3, good interesting pitch!

Deanna Molenda doing a variation at P8 - shoulder and butt scumming in the flaring crack!

Airy Rap Stations

Base of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris C
Seattle, WA

5.10

Very cool new addition to the Goat Wall! This route will almost certainly be one of the best routes in the area once it sees more traffic and gets cleaned up a bit more.

The lower pitches are extremely clean, a lot of effort has obviously gone into this. The upper pitches are still a bit fresh. Holds blew on us on P6 and P8. Be delicate if there is a party below you, and be vigilant if there is a party above you. Safety is everybody's responsibility! P8 still has a good bit of lichen on it. We felt that this notably increased the difficulty of the pitch to us above the 5.10a grade (more like 5.10+). Bring a brush to help out the effort!

The bolting is generous and well done. Linking pitches aside from P1&2 looked like it would cause more drag and communication challenges than it would be worth. P8 feels natural to break into 2 pitches with the intermediate anchor. I'd personally consider this a 9 pitch climb. EDIT: The new guidebook shows this as a 9 pitch climb, so the route description here as been updated as such.

For the descent, as of this writing, P8’s intermediate rappel anchor does not have chains, but there are a couple lockers on it. (I skipped this station and had to jug my rope back up to it.) Until chains get added, I’d personally bring 2 burner carabiners to potentially leave behind. EDIT: apparently permanent hardware has been added

Props to the developers for making an amazing addition to the wall. Apr 15, 2024

Annettemayday Daniels
Mazama Washington

Thanks for the great comments Chris. We are planning to go up and add a few more bolts at belay stations and chains on the rapell station at pitch 8.
And pitch 8 to the top will be freshened up.
We are excited to have added this climb to the Goat Wall.
Facebook Mazama Rocks has our local conversation about the area. Apr 15, 2024

Jess C
Seattle, WA

Great work on putting this climb. Well bolted and fun climbing.

The money pitch (5.10a) is really mosey and not yet clean making it really tricky on lead. Good news, I broke a few holds, it should be cleaner now, but hey bolts are so close that you can easily aid the pitch with a cheater draw.

Fun movement overall and tons of fun! Apr 15, 2024

Steve Shen
Richland, WA

5.10+

Fantastic climb! Bolts are generous and wherever you want them, never particularly run out and suitable for leader at the grade. P8 is harder than 10a IMO, more like 10+. Bouldery, overhanging grovel into bad feet. I can personally attest to it being not hard to french free through if you get stumped, though, so get on it eve nif you're not confident at the grade.
Raps OK with 2x70m if you have them! Chains have been added to the P8.1 rap station as well.
Thanks Jerry and Annette for beta + all the work (they've clearly done a LOT of scrubbing) Apr 29, 2024

Alex Coleman
Washington

5.10b

Pretty fun addition to the wall! Really not that much loose rock and the moss factor isn't bad. Couple of things regarding the climb: The climb starts immedietly to the right of MIR (about 20 ft) and you can see the chains at at the top of P2. Linking first two pitches is no problem. P3/P4, P6/7, and P8 can also be linked with a 70m, but you loose sight of climber and drag needs to be managed. The most loose rock is on the rappel when you're not rapping the route and the ledge of P5 so just careful there. The crux is more funky than 10+ and is only a few moves -- the second half of P8 is easy 5.9. The only negative is the rope pull on P3; the chains are far apart and was just a little funky. Thanks for the effort new routin'! Jun 17, 2024

Andrew Leader
Bellevue, WA

5.10

Excellent topo (including approach clarification) here: facebook.com/photo/?fbid=76… Jun 28, 2024

Ethan Schwartz

5.10+

Fun route. Thanks for all the hard work to develop it! The left hand bolt of the anchor on pitch 4 is physically loose, meaning I could move it by pushing down on it. Not a problem for leading, but used for rapping the route. Would be good to be replaced. Jul 3, 2024

scott the old duffer
Earth, Milky Way Galaxy

5.10+

cool route. Kudos to the developers. We linked pitches 1-2, 4-5, and 6-7 with a 70m rope. Minimal drag with judicious bolt skipping and a few alpine draws. don't get sucked into the rap station on top of pitch 5. belay is to the right of the tree. some loose holds on P7. P8 seems like 5.10+ and acutely cruxy. Jul 3, 2024

Garth Donald
Chelan, WA

Fun route. Link 1+2, 4+5 easy with 70m but not 60m. 5th pitch top stay right near top, rap station is deceptively straight up. P3 is true 5.9, and P8 gets well into 5.10. Great separate rap line but still loose.

Start of route is 20' to the right of MIR. Best approach is just do the obvious MIR approach and take a few steps to the right when you hit MIR start. Jul 4, 2024

Jerry Daniels
Mazama Washington

5.10b/c

Climbed the route today. Added a bolt to the top of pitch 3 and moved the chains more inline for a better rope pull on rappel. Added another bolt on pitch 4 and moved the chain off of the spinner bolt. The best approach is Not the MIR trail. Cut right at the last big fir tree and follow a much easier and scree free trail to Born in time. Jul 4, 2024

Deanna Ladybug
Seattle, WA

5.10c

What a great addition to Goat Wall, it’s an instant classic. And that pitch 8 will surely be the ‘money’ pitch as more folks climb it. I personally thought it felt like 10c, but I understand why the developers want to call it a sandbagged 10b, tee hee!!

There are variations to do P8, and I decided to throw myself into the crack for some wide fun! And because it was flaring, I could shoulder and butt scum a lil bit Jul 9, 2024