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> Beardsley Bould…
> Beardsley Roped Routes
Trials of the Desert Fathers
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Beardsley Roped Routes
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A Little Loose in the Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anarchy Crack T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Big Easy, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bitchin' Disco Time T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brown Sugar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Captain Crunch S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chussy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Classic Orange T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4 |
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Dumb Dinos Drunk on Superstition Mead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Entrails T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fearless Fantasy S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flake, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grandma Got Run Over By A Raindeer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Granite Doxology T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Gripper, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Harrowing of Hades T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hot Sweaty Buns S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Looks like waterslide T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lupe's Layback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Naked Bimbos from Mars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Onyx Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Onyx Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Onyx Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Oreo McFlurry T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Rotten Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Short and Sweet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Sidewinder TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slewgundymegahawk T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Snake Pit Arête S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Spank Your Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Trials of the Desert Fathers T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Unknown Easy Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Unknown Easy Crack 2 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Unknown Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wait until Dark S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 89 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Hinrichsen on Apr 11, 2024 |
| Admins: | Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Climb the fractured pillar then pull hard on crimps and edges to surmount the bulge. While the rock quality at the start is poor, the varnished rock on the bulge is quite good. This route is essentially a V4 boulder problem above a bad fall.
Location
A few hundred feet up the hillside from the Pencil Thin boulder you will see a dark patina covered block the shape of a refrigerator. This route climbs the north facing, right hand side, of the block.
Protection
You can quickly build a top rope anchor using two bolts at the top of the route. Bring two shoulder length slings, or one 20’ piece of webbing, to set up the anchor.
This is one of the more dangerous leads at Beardsley. The protection is difficult to place, and dubious at best. A tiny offset nut provides purely psychological protection before the hard climbing starts. Above that, a slightly larger offset nut in a shallow crack offers some potential of holding a fall. Crashpads are no help. A fall from the crux would not be clean. The leader is likely to bounce off the fractured pillar and roll down the jagged hillside in a bloody mess.
This is one of the more dangerous leads at Beardsley. The protection is difficult to place, and dubious at best. A tiny offset nut provides purely psychological protection before the hard climbing starts. Above that, a slightly larger offset nut in a shallow crack offers some potential of holding a fall. Crashpads are no help. A fall from the crux would not be clean. The leader is likely to bounce off the fractured pillar and roll down the jagged hillside in a bloody mess.
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