Chimera

This is an incredible line of highly varied climbing that ascends the entire wall, providing access to the finest summit in the park.  Bring lunch for a picnic at the top.

Like a biological chimera, this climb embodies multiple distinct characters. The lower half is slabby, starting up a cruxy and unique slab groove. The upper half features face climbing on mostly juggy terrain, with a couple of challenging situations. Just when you think you have it figured out, it changes, then changes again - and that is just the first pitch!

This is a polarizing route - some people love it and some people hate it. It is very different from other sport routes in the City, putting the climber into challenging, unique situations.  There is also more grit and lichen than most climbers are used to, despite significant cleaning effort. People with alpine rock climbing experience will feel at home on this bizarre and "anything goes" terrain. People who are primarily gym climbers may come away frustrated.  Love it or hate it, this will likely be a memorable route from your trip.

This is a well-protected sport line. All anchors are two bolts with chains.

Cautions

• Some sections of the rock are grainy, despite considerable cleaning effort. Debris falling from above collects on edges and behind chicken heads, so you may need to sweep holds with your hands and feet. That is just the nature of the rock on this section of cliff. It will take years of ascents for this route to feel pristine.
• The pitch 1 anchor stance is very tight - not suited for a party of three, and especially not suited for two parties (one climbing and one descending). Do not rap the route if another party is on it.
• There are two anchors at the top of pitch one. The left anchor continues Chimera. The right anchor (a bit higher) is the start of High Jinx. Before you start up pitch 1, locate both anchors. Refer to the beta photo for orientation. Be sure to head to the correct anchor at the top of pitch 1.
• Be prepared for difficult communication on pitch 2 due to the bulging nature of the rock and probable wind.
• Linking pitches, even the top-out "pitch" is not recommended, either climbing or rappelling. Due to the bulging nature of the upper line, communication between belayer and climber is already challenging, and rope drag is already a factor.

Pitch 1, a.k.a. "Gym Climber's Lament": 25 or 27 meters, 5.10a, 14 or 15 bolts
Bring your entire bag of stemming, chimney, and slab tricks for this incredible, groovy slab pitch. You will likely have to invent new moves you've never done before. Near the top of the pitch, the route splits to two separate anchors. To continue Chimera, aim leftward toward the large, angling fissure. To climb High Jinx, continue straight up, passing one more bolt.

Pitch 2: 26 meters, 5.9, 15 bolts
Clip the first bolt, directly left from the anchor. Step directly left to holds on the edge of the fissure. (After the climber clips the second or third bolt, the belayer should unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag.) Awkward, leaning climbing leads up the fissure edge with holds right where you need them. This unique and engaging pitch continues along the fissure edge, along the base of a wall on the left. The climbing is truly three-dimensional. Remember to look up left for holds. The main face rock has much lichen and grit, so take extra care where you step. Continue until the left wall shortens and look for a bolt on that left wall. Step over the fissure, up onto the left wall, then over onto the finishing slab. Easy climbing leads to the top of the pitch. From the pitch 2 anchor, look 8 meters directly right, near a large horn, and you'll see the anchor for High Jinx. This is one of the descent options, if another party is climbing Chimera behind you, or if you just want to rap down to climb the High Jinx pitch.

Top-out pitch: 10 meters, 3rd class walking, 1 bolt
If you want to continue to the top of the formation, which is highly recommended, look for a bolt up and quite a ways right. From that bolt, you will see the top anchor, which is shared with High Jinx. From this anchor, look climber's right and a bit higher to locate the top anchor of Aurora a short distance away.

Descent: Rap the route with a single 60m rope. CAUTION - From the top of Chimera pitch 2, you must carefully orient your rappel to remain in the fall line and avoid a big swing when passing the overlap. You'll be climber's right of the upper bolt line. Once below the overlap, continue along the fissure, carefully managing where the rope crosses over the overlap edge. Aim for the correct anchor below - High Jinx is climber's right anchor and Chimera is climber's left anchor (near the fissure).

Alternatively, you can also rappel nearby routes High Jinx or Aurora with a single 60m rope. BE SURE no one is ascending the route you are rappelling - pitch 1 anchors on Chimera, High Jinx, and Aurora will not accommodate more than two people.

Summit Orientation: After your summit picnic and nap, if you've gotten confused about which anchor to rappel from, here's the orientation. Locate both anchors along the ridge top a short distance below the true summit. From the true summit, this is climber's left (south). The anchor on climber's right (north) is the top of Aurora. The anchor on climber's left (south) is the top of Chimera and High Jinx - for the next anchor a short distance down, Chimera is climber's left (diagonal left rappel) and High Jinx is climber's right (near the big horn).

Original Hardware installed in 2023:

• Bolts: Fixe Stainless Steel Wedge Bolt #340 Double Expansion 3/8" x 3 3/4", (17mm wrench). The bolt holes were drilled extra deep, to aid possible future route maintenance.
• Hangers: Fixe Stainless Steel 3/8" Powder Coat. Although these came factory-painted, to better match our rock color, I applied additional ultra flat camo paint, colored "sand" and with a misting of black specks.
• Chain: Everbuilt, grade 43, 3/8", zinc plated steel.
• Quick links: Climbtech 3/8" plated steel, 2200 lbs working load, (15mm wrench).

This route starts in the large alcove in the central section of the Lost World wall, just a few feet from the trail.  Look for a slabby groove feature protected by bolts.  This is far right of the Yankee Clipper area and far left of the Lost Soles area.  Refer to beta photos.

One 60m rope, 15 quickdraws, sport anchor pro