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Death Star

5.11, Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Bolted by Gee, Tao, Matt, and Mimi Feb 2024. FA by Tung Pakorn and Tao March 2024
International > Asia > Thailand > Central - Aroun… > Lop Buri (ลพบุร… > Star Wall

Description

Another Multipitch climb on Khao Chin Lae 2 added in 2024.  Rap bolted over one week.  

A peculiar climb in terms of techniques with a shorter length than its neighboring multi-pitch route.  However, given its wandering nature and "blue-collared" style of climbing, it is one of the more unique routes compared to just about anything in Thailand. 

P1 -  Start on "Star Gate".  If you are good at squeeze-chimney then it can be a breeze.  If not, expect to thrutch and flail, all with plenty of profanities.  Don't go shirtless or wear your favorite shirt for this pitch.  Belay at a spacious ledge  (5.11 or 5.9 depending on who you ask, 30m)

P2 - Follow the obvious face climb to a small crux sequence.  This pitch feels like a much-needed break after the first pitch.  Ends on a hanging belay (5.10a, 20m).

P3 - Easy climbing up some sharp black rock.  Belay from a large spacious ledge  (5.9 20m)

** Linking P2 and P3 is recommended to skip the hanging belay ** 

P4 - From the big ledge, scramble up to gain a corner with good rock quality which continues up for several bolts then traverses hard to the right.  Another hanging belay here (5.9, 20m)

P5 - One of the money pitch.  Traverse hard right and up through overhanging terrain with a lot of exposure and a short crux sequence.  Best not to take a fall here as the climber (both lead and follower) will end up hanging in space.  Make sure you know how to prusik up the rope should this be the case.  Two belays are possible on this gigantic ledge  (5.10+, 20m)

P6 - A short final pitch - Start on another mandatory squeeze/OW for the first 5m to gain a very prominent roof.  Exit the roof on very sharp rock to gain an anchor (5.10+, 10m)

Descent Beta

- The first rappel is crucial, and it is of utmost importance you aim as far as you can to the climber's left (See pictures and topo) which will put you directly over P5's anchor.  Make sure you back clip your rappel or you could end up in hanging space (not ideal)

- 4 more straightforward rappels get you back to the ground.  

Location

Start on "Star Gate" 

Protection

about 14-15 quickdraws should do. Also make sure your team knows how to jug/prusik the rope just in case.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1st rappel from the ledge on final pitch.  MAKE sure to go as far toward climber's left as you can (aim for the cactus tree)
[Hide Photo] 1st rappel from the ledge on final pitch. MAKE sure to go as far toward climber's left as you can (aim for the cactus tree)
Leading up P5 of Deathstar
[Hide Photo] Leading up P5 of Deathstar
Looking up P2 of Death Star
[Hide Photo] Looking up P2 of Death Star
putting in the anchor at the start of P5
[Hide Photo] putting in the anchor at the start of P5
Approaching the end of P1 (Star gate)
[Hide Photo] Approaching the end of P1 (Star gate)