PRINT: Rock Climb The Balloon That Would Not Spy, Joshua Tree National Park

The Balloon That Would Not Spy

5.8, Trad, 220 ft (67 m),

Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Valley of Kings > Trad Crag

Access Issue: Temporary Closure in effect from April 3 to June 15, 2024 Details

Temporary Closure for Nesting Raptors
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Shares the initial 30 feet of climbing up the left side of the pillar before following a crack/ramp to the right. From there, a bit of dusty crack spits you into a gorgeous slightly-flaring thin hands dihedral which seems to last forever. Mantel left onto the ledge before the imposing roof to access the anchors for the normal route.

Location

Just left of the normal route, shares the start.

Protection

Standard rack to 4", extra mid sizes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Good shot of both routes - yellow line shows the easy traverse to the clean dihedral variation.

Looking up the right variation's amazing dihedral.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

AJ	[Hide Comment] Nice one! It is classy of you to give us credit for the FA. But I'm sure if we had climbed this, one of us would have posted it here. We probably ran out of time that day or got distracted by something else. You should give it a name and claim it. Looks sweet! Mar 7, 2024