Iron Skirt

Nice harder route on Paciencia with varied climbing. Dries fast.

P1: Climb up shallow left-facing corner with tiny gear and a few bolts, to a cruxy pull out of the corner when it arches left, and up to a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 5.11+, 55m

P2: Traverse right to bushy cracks, then straight up to clean double hand cracks. End at slung-block anchor. 5.10-, 45m

P3: Step left and climb up right-facing corners with more nice hand jamming to a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 5.10-, 30m

P4: Climb straight up from belay, then traverse right (extend protection) to flaring chimney with OW in the back (not visible from belay). Might protect better with #6. A #4 can be placed below the chimney, and a #5 near the top. After negotiating chimney, finish up hand crack to hanging belay at two-bolt anchor. 5.10++, 50m

P5: Up finger crack, place high piece, step left to rail/edge, and climb up through techy roof with tightly-spaced bolts, then left-facing layback up to ledge with two-bolt anchor. 5.12- or 5.10 A0, 20m.

P6: Climb thin crack off belay, then change to next corner left. Up this, then change corners left again at hand pod. Up final thin/balancey corner, pull out left to final two-bolt anchor atop a small ledge. Full value! 5.11- 50m.

Descent: Rap the route with two ropes.

A couple hundred feet right of Surfing for Stone. Approach as for SFS, then hike right along base of wall—down then back up through a sort-of ravine. Look for bolts leading to shallow left-facing corner on P1.

RPs and tiny cams to #5, doubles of tips and hand sizes. Optional #6 instead of #5.