Type: Mixed, Ice, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV
GPS: 50.21393, -66.66055
FA: Jan 2024, Stas Beskin and Caroline Ouellet
Page Views: 231 total · 9/month
Shared By: Caroline Ouellet on Feb 7, 2024
Admins: Richer Lariviere, Luc-514

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Description Suggest change

The mythic line called l'Appartement can't be done entirely anymore because the huge block that used to be "the Balcony" fell off a few years ago. To do the 2 first pitches of l'Appartement, start on right side, traverse left folloying the ice blobs and bolts, zigzag, following the easiest route possible on ice.

Yggdresil is a direct start below the ice. The 2 first pitches could be done as l'Appartement as they share the same anchors, but this is a harder, more direct variation, that goes all the way up the cliff but has not been repeated yet. I am not sure if the 3rd pitch is "in" every year. It felt runout and dangerous for the belayer/second. If you do this climb, let me know and I can update details. 

Yggdrasil is a viking word that means Tree of Life. 

P1 M8+ WI6, 30m, Ice roof to pull at the top. Anchors are the same as for l'Appartement. Instead of starting on the right side (L'Appartement), start directly below the ice.

P2 Straight up from the anchors, WI6, through the ice roof, protection on ice, straight up into the bolted anchors.

P3 M9, WI5+, through the ice roof at the top, bolted anchors 15m after the roof.

Location Suggest change

Wall l'Amphithéâtre, right of Voie de Nathan, left of Le Mulot. 

Protection Suggest change

bolts, ice screws

Photos

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