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Sirius (The Dog Star)
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.1 from 21
votes
Routes in Cats vs. Dogs Wall
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Beer for Life S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Catsiopia S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fleas and Ticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Into the Black S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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New Tricks S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Dogs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Out of the Blue S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Purrrfect Puppy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sirius (The Dog Star) S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stray Cat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Top Dawg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Rob Bauer, Jan. 2024. Equipped by J. Pollock and A. Prehmus |
| Page Views: | 312 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Josh on Feb 2, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Another oldster contribution next to Old Dogs/New Tricks :), Sirius offers steep, featured climbing similar to its neighbors and better rock quality than it looks (like the rest of the wall).
P1: start on the black rock in the little alcove next to the ramp-start of Old Dogs. Overcome the steep moves at the second bolt (just over the lip) on great, high jugs, and continue straight up. Belay at the same ledge as the Old Dogs anchor to your left, 80 feet, 5.7+, 8 bolts, and anchor with hooks.
(On P1, staying on the bolt line keeps it steeper but solid; while moving right of the bolts knocks things down a grade or two almost anywhere throughout.)
P2: walk straight to the back of the ledge, highstep onto the short headwall, and behold the Dog Star, right next to the second bolt. Work up into the undercling, clip above the overhang, and turn it on more great jugs. Finish with an easy romp to the anchor above, 50 feet, 5.7+, 5 bolts, and an anchor (no hooks).
(On P2, turning the overhang further right will add a grade or so, while dodging it on its left end doesn't lower the difficulty that much and is awkward and a bit runout.)
This could be led as one longer pitch with 14 draws. A 70 meter rope will make it to the ground from the very top. As always, knot your ends just in case.
Location
Currently, it is the second furthest right route on the wall. The start is basically at the start of Old Dogs, but where that route goes left up the ramp, Sirius starts straight up the steep, black rock to the white overhang above.
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