Queequeg Arch

Hands down, the most unique route ever! This tower was discovered by Matt Moore, who enlisted us to ascend it. Harvard and Queequeg were Eric Bjornstad's dogs and we adopted them when he became hospitalized. RIP Eric.

The route ascends the chimney formed between the arch and the tower itself from the North side. Climbing is never difficult, but you will wonder if the entire arch will crash down as your climbing (if it hasn't already!) Near the top, tunnel through to the South side to summit.

No anchor or any fixed gear on this tower. Deep sand and dirt cover the summit, so gear placements or bolts are impossible. Someone could potentially hammer in some very long stakes, but it is pretty cool to get up and down this one with no fixed gear. A minimum of four people will likely be required to safely get up and down this tower. Once you top out, drop a rope over either side of the tower. A fellow climber clips into each end from the ground anchoring the rope. A butterfly on top at center provides a clip in point. We belayed off our harness with the rope as a back up. Just sit down and kick your heels into the sand! So, two folks to anchor the rope, one to belay and one to climb. Taking turns to rotate through positions. A simul rap is necessary to get off. A second rope, preferably a fat static (60m) is required for the anchor.

Downstream end of Red Canyon, actually a small tributary of Red. This tower is located about 0.7 miles upstream of the confluence with Muddy Creek. The map will be most helpful.