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> Quebec Ice, Mix…
> 09. Cote-Nord Ice
> Rivière-Sainte-Margue…
Speedy Trap
WI6+ M7+ R
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Rivière-Sainte-Marguerite
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L'Escalier WI3-4 |
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La Souris Mexicaine WI5+ |
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La Voie de Nathan WI4+ M5+ |
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Le Mulot WI6 |
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Pilier Simon-Proulx WI5 |
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Routes des Baleines WI7- M9 |
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Speedy Gonzales WI6 |
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Speedy Trap WI6+ M7+ R |
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Yggdrasil WI6 M9 |
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 50.21393, -66.66055 |
| FA: | FA : Damien Côté et Benoît Marion, 2008. FFA: Carl Darveau, Jean-François Girard et Dzao Plamondon, 28/01/2018 |
| Page Views: | 191 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Caroline Ouellet on Feb 1, 2024 |
| Admins: | Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
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Description
The mixt line to the right of Speedy Gonzales. For a detailed description see the updates on https://www.escaladequebec.com/topos/ and open the most recent one for La Côte Nord Est.
Here is the way we climbed it, which differs from the first ascents.
P1 Climb the ice on the right side (WI4+), try not to place screws at the beginning to avoid rope drag. When there is no more ice, clip the bolt, follow the crack system, there is a total of 3 bolts on this crux. Go on or around the pillar. We made a screw anchor a few meters higher, on the very right side, on a small ledge. Around 35m pitch.
P2 Continue up the ice WI5 for 70m until un perfect ledge.
P3 Super easy finish for the remaining 50m.
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