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New Madrid

5.10d, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Erin Connery and Erik Ludwig, December 2023
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Prescott Area > Granite Dells > Crags along the… > Upper Boulder C… > Miyazaki > E Side

Description

Full body 5.9 crack start to burly upper crack. To reach the midway block on lead, sling lefthand crack up ten feet or lean right for blind but really solid 1" placement. Good gear just below and above block. Clip chain anchor or top out with features to right of anchor.

Location

The long crack in the middle of the wall.

Protection

Single rack with double 1", 3", 4"s and optional .3.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Peter Kohl headed for New Madrid undercling.
[Hide Photo] Peter Kohl headed for New Madrid undercling.
Tony Yaniro exiting upper New Madrid crack.
[Hide Photo] Tony Yaniro exiting upper New Madrid crack.
Initiating the crux sequence
[Hide Photo] Initiating the crux sequence
Quinn Weinberger examining the upper crack.
[Hide Photo] Quinn Weinberger examining the upper crack.
Eric Ludwig clearing the lower crack of loose rock. Commit to the lefthand crack to bypass the grit.
[Hide Photo] Eric Ludwig clearing the lower crack of loose rock. Commit to the lefthand crack to bypass the grit.
Scott Noble in the upper fist crack of New Madrid.
[Hide Photo] Scott Noble in the upper fist crack of New Madrid.