When Pigs Fly

When Pigs Fly has nice moves and nice exposure up the north prow of the Dakota Hogback.

Start at or just to the right of the year “1967” etched into the rock. The climbing to the first bolt is relatively easy and secure, but trad pro or a stickclip can be utilized. At the second bolt or shortly above it, traverse slightly climber’s left. Clip the third bolt, and from there, either ascend straight up on face holds or traverse slightly left onto the prow proper, and ascend a short hand to cupped hand crack laying it back or jamming it. Climb onto a small ledge, clip the fourth bolt, ascend either straight up or traverse again slightly left onto the prow proper, and climb it to the top (recommended). Clip the anchor standing atop the prow.

Note that at the fourth bolt if one were to climb hard right, there is a large flake feature that is semi-detached, so this is not recommended as it could seriously injury your belayer if it fell (see the picture). The bolt line does not go near this flake. The flake/block is certainly not on a hair trigger, but it does reverberate, and knocking it down should be avoided.

This route is the farthest route climber’s left on the west face of Dakota Hogback. Walk right around the prow from the approach trail from the parking lot, and it’s right above you.

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with lower-off fixed carabiners. Please do not toprope off of fixed gear - it leads to premature wear and potential sharp edges. Only use these carabiners for the last person to lower off.