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Herd Immunity

5.11a, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 15 votes
FA: TG, JD, KH, JB; Spring '23
Nevada > Southern Nevada > La Madre Range > Lake Mead Buttress

Description

Not surprisingly, with Contagion being as popular as it is, Lake Mead Buttress has seen a burst of new development. Herd Immunity is the second fully bolted sport multipitch on LMB. This is a great route characterized by delicate vertical climbing using pinches and sidepulls that is quite sustained at the 5.10 grade. This aspect of the buttress gets morning shade, the length of which depends on the time of year; and sun until last light.

Beta revised as of May 2024 to consolidate the old described pitch 4 and 5 into one pitch as the developers intended.

P1: 100’ 5.11a (10 QDs) Climb the steep orange wall to an anchor at the lip of the massive ledge above.  [Please leave the lowering hardware on the anchor as this pitch can be climbed and lowered as a single pitch]

*Move the belay* 100’ straight up on the talus ledge to a single belay bolt at the base of the next pitch

P2: 105’ 5.10 (12 QDs) Climb the easy slab for about 50 feet until you reach the golden dihedral. Stem through the dihedral then pull over the overhang on positive holds to reach a decent belay ledge.

P3: 110’ 5.10- (14 QDs) Tech your way up the gray face above. Follow the bolts to another comfortable belay ledge.

P4: 130’ 5.10+ (16 QDs) The crux comes early on this pitch at the bulge. Continue climbing techy and sustained vertical rock passing a rappel anchor. Keep following more bolts up easier techy vertical rock to an ok belay stance. It is possible to back clean a few draws if you don't want to carry 16.

P5: 100’ 5.7 (7 QDs) You can move the belay onto the big ledge (additional bolted anchor) but it's kind of unnecessary. Climb through the choss to the summit. Worst pitch on route and you're not missing much if you decide to skip this one except the summit of course.

Descent: It is possible to rap the route from the summit back to the top of P1 with a single 70M rope stopping at every rappel anchor (make sure to stop at the intermediate anchor on pitch 4). From there, rap the first pitch of Land Before Time. If there are people climbing the route behind you, consider rappelling “West Side Story” or descending via the standard walk off descent. If you are planning on doing the walk off, plan to carry everything up and over the summit as the walk off puts you pretty far from the base of the route.

Location

From the Base of Contagion, continue left past a short scramble to the prow, continue past the prow to your left and follow along the base of the wall to an obvious gully with a bolted face. This is the start to Land Before Time. Look about 70’ to your left to a steep orange wall, Herd Immunity starts in the center of this steeper wall

Protection

16 draws and a 70m rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview with Land Before Time and La Madre Flu
[Hide Photo] Overview with Land Before Time and La Madre Flu
Kevin putting in work on pitch 4
[Hide Photo] Kevin putting in work on pitch 4
Upper headwall from the beginning of the second pitch
[Hide Photo] Upper headwall from the beginning of the second pitch
First Pitch
[Hide Photo] First Pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Solid climbing on the first pitch forsure. Chill after that. As of March 2024 the hanging bolt on pitch 4 has been removed it seems. We wanted to link 3 and 4 but the old beta was off. We linked 5 and 6 with a 70. Mar 11, 2024
Thomas Gilmore
Where the climate suits my…
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Hey Jacob, I am not sure I follow your comment. I haven't been on the route in awhile but I am fairly confident that nothing has changed since it was first developed. I am unsure what you mean by old beta as the description here clearly states to link 4 and 5 to skip the hanging belay. I am sure other pitches could be linked but the easiest and obvious link would be 4 and 5. Mar 11, 2024
Jarred Jackman
WA, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks to the developers for all the hard work. P1 is really good and thoughtful. The entire route climbs much more slowly than routes on the south side. The holds and rock are just oriented differently with more emphasis on tension and friction than simply grabbing crimps and edges. The rock isn't as good as Contagion or P Zero and care should be taken to avoid breaking holds and dropping rock. A great route to tick but I'd opt for the frontside routes first. Topping out is nice though despite the lackluster quality of the last pitch. Mar 17, 2024
Ming
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Met Alex Honnold on his way down from soloing this route. I'm blown that he solo'd this chossy thing, I was terrified at the crux of the pitch 2 as things were just exfoliating and flaking off. Overall this is the most sustained 5.10 sport climb I've done yet at/near Red Rocks and not like the ladder crimpfest of POD and way more interesting (and awesome) movement than Unimpeachable. Apr 2, 2024
Thomas Gilmore
Where the climate suits my…
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Ming, you should look up Honnold's OS freesolo of El Padre. That's truly terrifying.

explorersweb.com/alex-honno… Apr 2, 2024
Thomas Gilmore
Where the climate suits my…
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Route description edited as of May 2024 to eliminate confusion. The developers intended to climb the route as currently described. The hanging belay anchor was mandatory for rappelling hence the old description breaking that section into 2 pitches. With the addition of some permas, one now only needs 16 draws to climb that pitch [old pitch 4+5] as intended which gives the added benefit of skipping a semi hanging belay. May 5, 2024