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Crystal Baller (link-up)
5.13d YDS 8b French 31 Ewbanks X UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Haus Rock
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Abstract Plain S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Burning Down the Haus S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Chainsaw T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crystal Ball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crystal Baller (link-up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cut Deep S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dance the Magic Dance V4 6B |
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Dink S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dirty Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feet Do Not Fail Me Now S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Half and Half T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hostile Krainzover S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lichen This S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Haus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Little Squirt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Macho Picasso S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Napoleon’s Syndrome (submitted as Five Nine) S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not Lichen This S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Not So Hostile Krainzover S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ol' Ball and Chain, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Proppa Toppa S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Road Rash (submitted as Flakin' Out) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Side Plate S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sky Pilot S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Spine, The S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Susie Seka's Short, Yet So Seductive, Little, Flakey Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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They Call Me Shorty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Throwin' The Drool Again S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Top Soil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Torqued Blow S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Kevin Capps, 2024 |
| Page Views: | 203 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Capps on Jan 1, 2024 |
| Admins: | Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a link-up, but it's full value endurance crimping, so I thought it was worthy of posting!
Climb the first 5 bolts of Crystal Ball, stay below the bolt and traverse right on small crimps and bad foot holds, reversing Cut Deep’s traverse, to arrive at the upper crux of BDTH. Crimp hard and hold it together to get through the upper crux of Burning Down the Haus.
While none of the climbing on this is new, it does create a very long and sustained section of climbing without any good rests, which I thought was pretty cool.
As for rating, maybe a "fitness 13d" rating is what I would give it, since nothing on the route is that cruxy, it just gets pumpy. Maybe a similar grade to Aquadarius, for anyone that knows that route.
Location
Climb the first 5 bolt on Crystal Ball, then traverse right on small crimps and finish on Burning Down the Haus.
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