Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
GPS: 44.03596, -121.54824
FA: Griffith, Thesenga, Pajuanas, Davis
Page Views: 196 total · 7/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 23, 2023
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

B.A.G. It climbs the attractive arête above the three short bolted routes in the middle of the cliff: Probably best approached via Something Man, one can belay on the huge, comfortable ledge or one can easily continue on doing the whole thing in one pitch (either skip the anchor or bring a 120cm sling if you do this).

Move up into a dirty chimney to clip the first bolt, and either continue up the chimney, clipping out left until forced to climb out left (easier, but you’re still going to do the crux), or climb the arête directly (more difficult, but contrived) - the options may be why the route originally got the 11d/12a slash grade.

Regardless, the upper crux sequence is beautiful and fun. There is a little run out going to the anchor that could possibly be protected with a #1 or #2 Camalot, but the climbing is easy and the fall would be clean so it is not essential.

Location Suggest change

Climb Something Man to the big ledge. Move right and continue up the arête/chimney.

Protection Suggest change

Whatever you need to access the route, plus 7 more bolts plus an optional hand-sized cam for run to the anchor. A 70m rope allows lowering all the way to the ground. Consider bringing some quicklinks and Mussy Hooks to improve the Metolius Rap Hanger anchor.

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