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Baby Blockhead

5.9, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown. It was climbed by Dougald MacDonald and Mark Hammond in December 2023
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Lower Animal World
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Description

This is a fun and useful link-up in a popular sector, with a short trad variation giving access to the attractive upper face on Blockhead. Climb past the first six or seven bolts of Baby Dog. Place a piece in the corner on the left and a piece out on the face, then move left onto the face above the roof. You’ll quickly find another piece (this key placement is hidden from below but solid; we used a No. 1 Camalot). Either continue straight left to the midway anchor on Blockhead or gun for the first bolt on upper Blockhead. (If you go to the anchor, unclip it after getting the next bolt to eliminate rope drag.) Continue on upper Blockhead for three or four more bolts, then finish either directly past the final bolt on that route (up right) or climb the arête on the left (a bit run-out but fun).

It was freezing when we did this, so it's hard to grade accurately, but let's start the bidding at 5.9.

Location

Start on Baby Dog, and finish on Blockhead.

Protection

Approximately 12 bolts plus a handful of finger- and hand-sized cams. It might be possible to place an additional piece out left if you follow the arete version at the top.