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Risky Business Direct Finish

5.10a, Sport, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 9 votes
FA: Ben Wyse
Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Hidden Rocks > (4) Hidden Roofs

Description

Climb Risky Business.  Climb past the mid-route anchor and continue past 3 more bolts to a second anchor.  I typically clip one of the anchor carabiners and "top out" because you are in the middle of a cruxy section when you can reach up and make the clip.  It is just fun to finish all the moves.  Once you top out it is easy to reach down, clip your rope to the second anchor and downclimb so your belayer can "take!"  

Location

Finished to the top of the cliff.  

Protection

3 additional bolts, top anchor with chains/carabiners. I usually clip the first bolt on this section with an alpine draw to reduce rope drag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beautiful October day on Risky Business Direct Finish
[Hide Photo] Beautiful October day on Risky Business Direct Finish
Martha entering the steep section
[Hide Photo] Martha entering the steep section

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian B
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Be careful lowering from this route if you didn't use any alpine draws. The position of the anchors and rope angle can cause the rope to pinch between the anchor carabiners and rock. Consider rapping or extending/skipping the first bolt on the extension Jul 9, 2024
Ben Wyse
Harrisonburg, VA.
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Clipping the first bolt on the extension with an alpine draw is a great idea. Hidden Roofs has a multitude of routes where alpine draws are a MUST. The nature of the rock made it challenging to get around that. A few routes would be almost un-climbable if you only used sport draws. Jul 10, 2024