Styrofoam Boots (AKA Sphinxinated)

There is some debate over the first ascent of this route. Both Tyler Nygaard and Cody Heert, and Ron Bunkhorst and Olin Erickson, claim to be the first, with respective proposed names listed in the title. The FA was done in early October 2007, during an "all-time" winter on the Sphinx. This route is the next drainage immediately right of the classic Lowe Route. Local climbers believe this route to only form "every decade or so". I've seen pictures that depict the first three pitches as a pure ice course. When we climbed it in mid-Novemeber of 2023, it was a healthy mix of thin and poorly protected ice, technical mixed climbing on cobbles and interesting three dimensional well bonded blob climbing on the crux "pillar". For the sake of this description I will refer to the route as "Styrofoam", and the given pitch descriptions will reflect our experience. Pitch difficulty grades are identical to those presented in the new HOH guidebook, besides pitch five which was vastly different. The standing reputation of this climb holds that the ice is often "thinner than it looks", echoing our experience - why I decided to add an "R" rating to the grade. In generous conditions the "R" could obviously be eliminated. Styrofoam is a four star alpine quest of the highest quality.

Pitch One** (WI2, 30M) - Several short smears ooze over the low angle cliffs on the far left side of the climb providing access to the snowy bench above. In fat years a direct and steeper start might form. Above the ice, traverse hard right on snow to a chunky flow on the far right side of the climb. 

Pitch Two*** (WI3+R, 30M) - Climb the short and generous flow directly above the belay to the next snowy bench. Traverse left on snow to the tiered and probably wafer thin, unprotectable, rolling curtains that lead to the steeper crux pitch above. A #0.5 Camalot in a deep crack right of the tiers provides no ground fall protection, but might stop you on the ledge if the ice gives way. There is a fixed knifeblade in a questionable flake able to be clipped above the first tier of delicate ice. In a fat year this is probably trivial rolling ice. For us, 10cm stubbies and gentle climbing was the game. Belay at the crux ice above.

Pitch Three**** (WI4+R, 35M) - Assuming a direct flow to the upper slot is not formed, the most likely passage will be on the diagonaling flow climber's right. This could be thinner than it appears. Climb 20 meters of WI3+ to the crux "pillar" above. For us this last bit was anything but a pillar, instead a vertical 10M smear of frozen cobbles requiring gentle mixed climbing and offering no real protection. Some dubious rock protection below and near the top of the "pillar" might provide something of comfort. The top out has amazing vertical positioning in an icy slot chimney that rivals any pitch anywhere. Belay above from screws if you still have any, or with rock gear (nuts/knifeblades/peckers for us, on climber's right).

Pitch Four**** (WI2, 45M) - A welcomed reprieve. 45M of rolling WI2 in a classic alpine slot reminiscent of the Stettner/Chevy Couloirs on the Grand Teton. Belay from ice or rock below the final steeper ice flow. Before simul-climbing with the following pitch as has been done on previous ascents, consider the extensive funnel that is the "alpine slot", and your sorry partner held captive by the other end of your cord waiting to receive a grapefruit to the dome.

Pitch Five*** (WI4+ to WI3, M3, 50M) - Apparently on a fat year this last pitch might form as "WI3 with a steep step". For us it was a detached 8M vertical curtain the thickness of a home printer. The ice felt hard and resistant to fracture so we sent it gently, but you're never sure if that's the right choice. Above, a short well protected 4M rock step goes at M3-ish. Rambly alpine terrain with a bit of kitty litter scrambling and ice leads to the top of the North Face.

Descent - Continue to the summit climber's left, or descend directly into the large bowl draining skier's right. About 3/4 of the way down this bowl, a trail will branch off skier's right towards the ridge of initial ascent and Helmet saddle. There should be nothing harder than third-class, and intuition should suffice. When in doubt, cut skier's right.

A detailed trip report of our climb is available here: tenthousandtoofar.com/2023/…

From the Sphinx/Helmet saddle (see area page), ascend about 500 feet of the ridge directly above the saddle until an "obvious break in the cliff" allows a steep traverse climber's left to the North Face. Avalanche danger can be a problem in the many gullies between you and the ice. The Sphinx is generally considered an early season venue for this reason, and because the ice generally deteriorates as winter peaks. In two trips I'm not sure I've perfected the approach, but line of sight tactics have worked both times. The ice should be visible fairly quickly after rounding the corner towards the North Face. Allow more time than the mileage and vertical suggests.

Screws to comfort (many small, toss in a 7cm stubby if you own one), pitons (especially knifeblades/peckers), nuts, cams/hexes from large fingers to two inches, long slings, maybe a file for your picks after wrecking them on the pitch two glaze.

Consider a second rope or tag-line, because if pitch five isn't fit for climbing it's probably five or more 30M rappels to the ground, and we didn't see much of a rock alternative.