To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Black and Tan
5.11-,
Trad, 150 ft (45 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: 11/2023
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (11) Juniper Ca…
> Cloud Tower
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Black and Tan is a nice addition to the day after climbing a neighboring route in Juniper Canyon. It faces northwest and is in the shade most of the year. Start on a moderate crack tending right that leads to a steeper section of 5.9 face climbing with protection in pods. An attentive belay is important here, as there is a ledge not far below and long slings are recomended to reduce drag. A crucial #1 camalot placement is awkward to place and on the right, then climb up on positive holds to a bolt. From there, continue up and right past 6 more bolts with thoughtful face climbing on beautiful brown stone between black water streaks to a high crux. Bust a move left and finish up a moderate dihedral (0.4 and 0.75 camalot, slings) to an anchor. It is possible to climb slightly right of the line between bolts 3 and 5 at an easier grade, but the direct routes is better climbing.
An intermediate anchor at bolt 3 allows one to lower and clean with a 70 meter rope (a 60 meter might work but it's close, tie a knot!). Give the rope a solid tug when pulling to keep it out of the bushes to the right.
Location
Easily visible from the Juniper canyon trail, the route sits alone on the south side slightly before where the trail diverges for Brownstone and Rainbow walls. The start is ~100 ft from the main trail where a fairly obvious clearing leads to the base.
Protection
Single rack 0.3 - 3 camalot, doubles 0.5 - 1. Optional small to medium nuts. 14 draws with lots of long slings to reduce drag.
[Hide Photo] View of the route from the Juniper Canyon trail.