This route was an effort of a certain local Kanchanaburi climber who wishes to remain anonymous. In any case, it was a ground-up rope solo effort that took several months to complete. A very rare style/attribute to see in Thailand.
All the pitches are quite short, often less than 20m but with a generous amount of bolts. The climbing, however, is hard right off the ground and remains sustained until halfway up. Bring your strongest A-game if you are trying to onsight this route.
No free-ascent as of Nov, 2023 so the grading is purely speculated.
P1 - Forget about warming up... Hard pulling on crimps and pin scars as soon as you leave the ground. Another crux awaits halfway up. (15m, 5.12a?)
P2 - Easy traverse off the ledge to the right then begin climbing slightly overhanging left-leaning groove. A powerful bouldery crux awaits above until the route exits with a pumpy flake traverse to the left. (20-25m, 5.12a/b?)
P3 - Climb up black crimpy rock with crimps and good friction. The belayer should be attentive as the fall at the crux might result in climbers landing on a small tree. The pitch then traverses back right into another pumpy 5.10 climbing with good exposure. Belay on a small ledge. (15m, 5.12a?)
P4 - Finally an easy pitch. 20m of wandering on forgiving slab terrain. (5.8)
P5 - Awesome and short. Start up some crusty tufa climbing (take caution) into an overhang-bomber finger lock over a bulge. Powerful and fun. Belay on a very large sloping ledge. (20m, 5.11+).
P6 - Vertical climbing on what seems to be a very featured rock. Difficulty seems to ease off here but there is wasp nesting halfway up as of Nov, 2023. Take caution. (15m, 5.10)
Descent
From a large sloping ledge at the end of P5. We descend with 3 raps to the ground with 70m rope. Take caution at the last rappel and clip back (overhanging), you will barely reach the ground with a rope stretch.
We can not confirm that 60m will get you down.
Upon arriving at the turtle crag, hike uphill to the right for another 20+ minutes. The route is located on the big face behind/to the right of the original turtle crag. Aim for the water streaks to the right of the giant white face.
Bring a machete, cutting tool, and mosquito repellent. The jungle can be very grown after the rainy season.
Quickdraws, long alpine slings, and 70m rope,
helmets are highly recommended.
All anchors are bolted with chain and rap rings.