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PhuTao Majestic
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Turtle Home Crag (บ้านพุเต่า)
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Bat Shit Coffee S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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BBQ S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blessing Empire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dance Monkey S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Eye Contact S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fire of Winter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flea Market S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Forget BKK S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fury Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy To be Sent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hed Kone (เห็ดโคน) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Kalymnos Yo Yo Yo S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lion's Back S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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PhuTao Majestic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Promise-Land S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sai Yok Noi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sai Yok Yai S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Y Generation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 14.10035, 99.07711 |
| FA: | FA - ground up bolting by Kanchanburi Bro aka Thai Fred Becky, 2022-2023 (no free ascent) |
| Page Views: | 170 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tao Techakanon on Nov 14, 2023 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
Access Issue: Access is sensitive in Kanchanaburi! Please behave accordingly to the guideline below.
Details
1) Be nice and respectful toward the locals (just like anywhere, a smile and a nod can go a long way).
2) Due to limited parking and relatively small size of the current crags, a visit in large groups is NOT recommended. Please maintain a low profile and consider leaving your music/boombox in the car.
3) There is no facility at any of the current crag. It is of utmost importance that every visitor practice LNT (Leave no trace). Pack out ALL of your trash and please do all of your bathroom business before arriving.
In case of emergency, make sure to relieve your self at least 30m from the crag. Dig a hole and bury your business or simply use a wag bag and pack it out.
4) No camping allowed. Please leave the climbing area by 6 pm. Many areas are considered community forest (ป่าชุมชน). Do not disturb or approach all wildlife. Do not climb a route if there’s a sign of nesting (bird, bees, etc).
5) While shopping at the nearest 7-11 is convenient, please consider supporting local businesses. (I.e. Hug Hill Cafe near Turtle Home Crag, various local restaurants in Sai Yok District)
6) A helmet is strongly advised, especially for the belayer. Loose rock is common for new climbing area.
7) Please report any sighting of loose rocks, dangerous hardware, or wildlife nesting on FB group or page such as “Let’s go climbing Thailand” or “Thailand Mountain Sport Club” (TMSC).
- ****** CLIMBING IS AN INHERENTLY DANGEROUS ACTIVITY that may result in serious injury or death. The information and topo provided on Mountain Project are not objective but rather subjective. Do not use the information contained here unless you are a skilled and experienced climber who understands and accepts the risks of climbing. If you choose to use any information on this page to plan, attempt, or climb a particular route, you do so at your own risk. ********
Description
This route was an effort of a certain local Kanchanaburi climber who wishes to remain anonymous. In any case, it was a ground-up rope solo effort that took several months to complete. A very rare style/attribute to see in Thailand.
All the pitches are quite short, often less than 20m but with a generous amount of bolts. The climbing, however, is hard right off the ground and remains sustained until halfway up. Bring your strongest A-game if you are trying to onsight this route.
No free-ascent as of Nov, 2023 so the grading is purely speculated.
P1 - Forget about warming up... Hard pulling on crimps and pin scars as soon as you leave the ground. Another crux awaits halfway up. (15m, 5.12a?)
P2 - Easy traverse off the ledge to the right then begin climbing slightly overhanging left-leaning groove. A powerful bouldery crux awaits above until the route exits with a pumpy flake traverse to the left. (20-25m, 5.12a/b?)
P3 - Climb up black crimpy rock with crimps and good friction. The belayer should be attentive as the fall at the crux might result in climbers landing on a small tree. The pitch then traverses back right into another pumpy 5.10 climbing with good exposure. Belay on a small ledge. (15m, 5.12a?)
P4 - Finally an easy pitch. 20m of wandering on forgiving slab terrain. (5.8)
P5 - Awesome and short. Start up some crusty tufa climbing (take caution) into an overhang-bomber finger lock over a bulge. Powerful and fun. Belay on a very large sloping ledge. (20m, 5.11+).
P6 - Vertical climbing on what seems to be a very featured rock. Difficulty seems to ease off here but there is wasp nesting halfway up as of Nov, 2023. Take caution. (15m, 5.10)
Descent
From a large sloping ledge at the end of P5. We descend with 3 raps to the ground with 70m rope. Take caution at the last rappel and clip back (overhanging), you will barely reach the ground with a rope stretch.
We can not confirm that 60m will get you down.
Location
Upon arriving at the turtle crag, hike uphill to the right for another 20+ minutes. The route is located on the big face behind/to the right of the original turtle crag. Aim for the water streaks to the right of the giant white face.
Bring a machete, cutting tool, and mosquito repellent. The jungle can be very grown after the rainy season.
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