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Enter the Dragon
5.11a,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
FA:
Jake Leonard and
Chris Simrell, October, 2023
Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Icicle Creek
> Duty Dome - War…
> Warrior Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Enter the Dragon is a fun mixed addition to the Warrior Wall at about 10+/11- and serves as the P1 approach pitch to Achilles and King Lichen on the Warrior Wall prow above.
Begin just left of Duke of Ballet in a short bit of easy wide crack and blocky terrain. Step right and slab upwards through a couple of bolts. Move left through easy climbing into a shallow concavity and climb up towards the tongue with bolts on your right along the blunt arete. Navigate the tongue-like roof feature, and pull into the crack above. Protect this final section with 1-2 pieces of gear in addition to a couple more bolts.
Exit left from the upper crack to access King Lichen. Complete Enter the Dragon following the crack to the bolted anchor up and slightly right at a small foot ledge to access Achilles.
Location
Approach is the same as for The Warrior. Park just downstream from Icicle Buttress and then look for the sign marking the Duty Dome trail above the embankment. Stay right at a subtle fork to remain in the main rocky gully or you will end up at Duty Dome. Warrior Wall should be directly above as you approach up through a sandy and talus filled gully.
Enter the Dragon starts on left side of the slab at the base of the Warrior Wall prow just to the left of Duke of Ballet and to the right and downhill of the start for The Warrior.
Protection
Bolts and gear to #1 BD. This route is mostly bolted, however a couple of small to medium cams are needed to protect the crack above the tongue. Achilles, accessed from the the anchors atop this route, also requires gear to #1 BD.
[Hide Photo] Avery stemming in the concavity below the tongue.
[Hide Photo] Chris, valiantly watching his wife be eaten alive by the gaping maw of the dragon.