PRINT: Rock Climb King Lichen, Central-East Cascades, Wenatchee, & Leavenworth

King Lichen

5.13a, Sport, 140 ft (42 m),

Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: Paul S, Ilana Z, Tanner J, Ben G, Jeromy M. FFA Yuval B, Nov 2023
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > Duty Dome - War… > Warrior Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.

A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.

In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.

Description

Originally dubbed "Das Kante" (German for "The Edge"), this line follows the prominent arete of the prow on Warrior Wall.

The route is approached by climbing Enter the Dragon, after pulling over the tongue and climbing 10 feet up the crack, clip a bolt and then exit up and left on the slab, past a bolt, and to a two bolt anchor under the roof. From here things get wild. The hard climbing through the pinnacle of the arete is identical to the most classic of Leavenworth boulder problems featuring big moves between slopers, crimps, and pinches - all through the routes steepest and most exposed terrain. It's well bolted but the exposure as the overhanging wall of lichen drops below you will take your breath away. Once on a good rest ledge above take a few steps left of the arete to a good hidden jug to clip from and continue up the face from here. Engaging movement through interesting slab and face climbing on the upper headwall brings you to the top. The traverse to the anchor at the very end is easy but a #2 camalot may be nice if you find yourself there and are pumped out of your mind.

You can climb to the top in one go but the rope drag from the first pitch complicates things a bit. When I did this I toprope/cleaned up to the P1 anchor continued on lead from there. Doing it this way with an extendo or two rope drag is minimal. You can definitely pitch it out too, it's just not the most comfortable belay. Bring an 80 and tie a knot if doing the mega pitch and lowering to the ground, a 70 will not get you down.

Location

Approach to Warrior Wall. The route starts up Enter the Dragon, after pulling over the tongue and climbing 10 feet up the crack, clip a bolt and then exit Enter the Dragon by climbing up and left on the slab, past a bolt, and to an anchor under the prominent roof.

Protection

80M rope stretcher if lowering from top, tie knots. Otherwise with a 70M rope traverse right from the top and do either 2 rappels down Achilles/Enter the Dragon or walk 20 ft further to a single rappel from the Warrior anchors, also tie knots.

From P1 anchor, 9 Bolts to the top, optional #2 for end.