PRINT: Rock Climb Unknown Chimney, City of Rocks

Unknown Chimney

5.8, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),

Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Elephant Rock > Elephant Rock - East

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

Chimney is pretty flared, but provides great friction. We did find some old cord, so pretty obviously has had previous ascents. Crux for us was right after the massive chockstone sitting rest. We went right, and shimmied over the edge (size 4 cam here). This posed partially dangerous for the follower, who could swing into the other face if they slipped. Not really a big deal though.

Location

The obvious chimney route around the arete from "Just Say No".

Protection

.4-4. Hasn't been climbed much, so expect webs and vegetation. Save 3 and 4 for the top. Can use the rap station for an anchor, or there is space to build one with hand sized cams.