Type: Trad, Alpine, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches
FA: Hunter Corliss, Jake Yelton, Jordan Nelson. Summer 2023
Page Views: 202 total · 99/month
Shared By: Hunter Corliss on Oct 8, 2023
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

The Crown Jewel ascends the left side of the prominent open book feature visible on the northwestern third of the wall. This route is ~65m of pure bliss slab climbing on near perfect stone. While there is an anchor 35m down the route (can rap with a 70m or two ropes), you could link these two pitches together with minimal effort for a full rope length long mega pitch for the ages. Don't forget the small pro!

P1 (30m, 5.9, 5 bolts, cams in the 0.3-0.5 range) Start off a small dirt ledge at the base of the open book feature using a gear anchor. Plug a hand sized cam in the crack or continue up to the first bolt at around 10 feet, clipping three more and finding remarkably good holds that appear just where you need them. A cam placement leads to a 10m long v slot dihedral which steps out right clipping the final bolt at its end before reaching the anchors.

P2 (35m, 5.10-, 4 bolts + a bugaboo piton, lots of small cams/nuts) Climb out the left side of the anchor through some more surprisingly good holds and clip the piton at around 8 feet off the anchor, continuing up through some awesome intermittent finger crack with small pro until plugging a couple tiny cams or nuts and making a techy move out right to a great ledgy rest. Plug another small cam and clip 2 bolts before pulling a tiny roof with some thoughtful smearing and a great hold on the lip. Follow the ledge system above the roof up and left until you can clip the next bolt and crank some awesome crimping moves past the bolt where it kicks back to near vertical. Clip the final bolt and cruise the final bit as the angle eases up. Steer right through the perfect pink granite at the top so as to not be tempted to yank on two suspect looking flakes off left.

Location Suggest change

The GPX track will lead you right to the top of the climb. A large cairn anchor backs up a tree with green cord marking the first rap.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack to 3, doubles from #0.1 to #0.5, full set of nuts, 5 draws per pitch plus more for nuts