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Routes in Haus Rock
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Abstract Plain S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Burning Down the Haus S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Chainsaw T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crystal Ball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cut Deep S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dance the Magic Dance V4 6B |
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Dink S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dirty Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feet Do Not Fail Me Now S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Half and Half T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hostile Krainzover S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lichen This S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Haus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Little Squirt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Macho Picasso S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Napoleon’s Syndrome (submitted as Five Nine) S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not Lichen This S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Not So Hostile Krainzover S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ol' Ball and Chain, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Proppa Toppa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Road Rash (submitted as Flakin' Out) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Side Plate S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sky Pilot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Spine, The S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Susie Seka's Short, Yet So Seductive, Little, Flakey Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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They Call Me Shorty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Throwin' The Drool Again S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Top Soil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Torqued Blow S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Kevin Capps, 2023 |
| Page Views: | 138 total · 67/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Capps on Oct 6, 2023 |
| Admins: | Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Begin in the short dihedral, and exit on its right side to meet the route's crux, a crimpy few moves, to get through to easier climbing and then a good rest at about mid-height. From the rest, clip a bolt on Burning Down the Haus, and adventure your way all the way left across one of the most beautiful panels at Haus Rock to finish on Crystal Ball's anchor.
Most of the climbing on the route is new, but it does intersect BDTH to get to the traverse, and of course, the thrilling finish on CB. The traverse has amazing climbing on it, but the foot holds are small and barely existent, so it's hard to stay engaged with a little bit of a pump. I added a permadraw to the bolt on BDTH to make cleaning your draws easier.
Other link-ups that have been done are below:
Cutting the Haus Down, 13d - Cut Deep to the rest, then finish on Burning Down the Haus.
Burning Balls, 13b/c - I am not sure on the grade, but it felt slightly easier than Cut Deep. Climb BDTH to the rest, then finish on Cut Deep’s traverse. An easier variation to this would be to do Sky Ball, which is Sky Pilot to Cut Deep - maybe more like 13b for that one.
Cut Trad, 13c- ish - Cut Deep to the rest, then finish on the crack. This may be a way to get to the top if you don't like the traverse.
Location
Start just left of Torqued Blow and right of Burning Down the Haus. Finish on Crystal Ball's anchor.
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