Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 9 pitches
FA: Zahn & Schober (1932), refurbished by B. Haberfellner & G. Völkl (2004)
Page Views: 44 total · 21/month
Shared By: Melanie Trobe on Oct 2, 2023
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath

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Description Suggest change

The first pitch starts up a short slabby section and continues on steep, rocky grass to the anchor. The secend pitch ascends a pillar onto a grassy band (intermediate anchor) and continues on a steepening face to the next anchor. Pitch 3 leads slightly left up a chossy ramp. Pitch 4 starts on grassy slab, continues shortly over steep grass and finishes in a water grooved dihedral. The next pitch continues through a short chimney and slightly left to the next anchor. Pitch 6 continues up to a grassy band underneath a slab. The route continues on the left side of the slab just right of the "Zahnriss." Most of the crux moves are well protected and the rock quality is substantially higher than the previous pitches, however the last meters before the anchor are dirty and insecure. Pitch 7 (crux) continues up the crack with a mix of chimneying and laybacks; when the chimney narrows at the end, exit onto the left side and continue up a few meters to the anchor. On the last pitch the difficulty eases, but rock quality is not the greatest. Continue on steep, rocky grass until you reach the plateau on top of Pfaffenstein. The summit cross is already visible climbers left.

Link to topo.

Location Suggest change

Follow the well marked hiking path towards Markussteig (Nr. 825) until you hit a small cave with some memorial plaques. Continue around the corner and up a ramp to your right, leaving the marked hiking path. Continue up until you reach a plateau (this can also be reached via the first part of "Eisenerzer Klettersteig" (Via Ferrata C/D)). From here a climbers path traverses unterneath the west face. Follow this path past a ridge (start of   "Pfaffenstein Südwestkante") and continue until you see a sign saying "Südwand". Continue up the gully just to the right of the sign to a grassy band. Follow this band climbers left past a ring (start of "Südwandplatten"). The route starts at a bolt at the end of the grassy band.

Alternatively from the parking lot follow the hiking trail towards "Südwandsteig". Continue on this until you are about 100 m from the base of the wall (~1 h). Split off left (at ~1500 hm) across steep grass and scree trending higher towards the wall (~400 m). Pass above the trees but underneath the first rock sections and continue until you see the sign saying "Südwand". From here follow the approach described above.

Protection Suggest change

Some bolts, bolted anchors and 0.4-3 cams.