Southwest Shoulder
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British PG13
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | A. Prehmus & Bauer? |
Page Views: | 78 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Alan Prehmus on Sep 28, 2023 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
While this route starts on the Permission Wall, it follows the Southwest shoulder of the larger Meadow Dome.
P1. Start from the top of a large boulder. After one move right, climb left past a second bolt towards the small crack system. Tricky climbing (5.8) on moderate gear leads to lower angle slab above. Belay on the top of Permission Wall.
Transition over the chimney/gully onto the Meadow dome proper to the escape bolts used to descend from other Permission Wall routes down the lower Tan Corridor wall.
P2. Follow reasonable gear up the shoulder to the top of the dome (5.6). Lots of options look feasible.
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