The Mad Hatter

Approach ramp: scramble in from the far right along the ledge system. Some parties may choose to rope up before tackling an exposed bulge and low fifth-class slab. About 200 feet before the top of the ramp, look for a small cave and inobvious pillar that marks the beginning of P1.

Pitch 1: 5.10-. From the ramp, turn around, and climb onto the inobvious pillar. Move through poor rock to access the roof and V-notch. Turn the roof, and continue through spooky flakes to a comfortable ledge and 2 bolt anchor (85’).

Pitch 2: 5.11+. Climb into the overhang, and make several bouldery moves protected by the 0.1/0.2 offset cam. Get a nice rest before pulling into more steep fingers followed by thin technical climbing and tricky gear. Enjoy great movement into a wider section before finishing the pitch with more steep .10 climbing and a two bolt anchor (180’).

Pitch 3: 5.10+. Follow ledgy, low angle rock up and right to the left side of a slab. Small gear leads to the first bolt on the slab. Climb the beautiful slab up and right to gain a finger crack then hands splitter. Hard moves around some vegetation leads to a roof. Climb through the roof, and follow the low angle corner to a two bolt anchor up and left (180’)

Pitch 4: 5.12-. Straightforward climbing with tricky gear leads to a .12- arching roof with one bolt. Bouldery movement leads straight up to a ledge. Move right to a two bolt anchor and good ledge beneath the giant, orange dihedral. This pitch climbs through the beautiful shield of rock visible from the ground (120’).

Pitch 5: 5.10 PG-13. Climb the low-angle splitter until it steepens to a nice big-hands crack in the giant, obvious, orange dihedral. Do not continue to the top of this crack, rather make an airy traverse left through large flakes (.10 PG-13) towards a 2 bolt anchor and a stance right of the Wild Fang (130’).

Pitch 6: 5.12b/c. Start with a boulder problem through the Wild Fang. Gain the splitter that leads to the arete and an airy mantel around the corner. Climb through wide flakes to a good stance before making another aspect change to access a finger crack which leads to the roof. Pull through the roof to hard laybacking before making sporty moves right to a 2 bolt anchor (100’).

Pitch 7: 5.11. Continue up the right-facing dihedral. Hard tips/fingers laybacking off the anchor leads to thin hands and a fun roof. Turn the small roof into a wide flare followed by a strenuous section of fists/offwidth. Pass another roof on its right side before a short rest at the bottom of the black band. Solve the puzzle of moving right through the black band (PG-13/R) before continuing up an easy, right-facing corner to a good ledge and 2 bolt anchor (150’).

Pitch 8: 5.9 Climb the massive, left-facing dihedral to a large ledge near the summit plateau and a two bolt anchor (100’).

Descent: walk off via the Southeast Gully, Hourglass Ridge, or rap the route. Pitch 8 can be rappelled with a single 60m rope. Bypass pitches 6 and 7 with a direct rappel straight below the pitch 7 anchor (see the topo) using double ropes. From the pitch 4 anchor, follow the route down. It is possible to rappel from the top of the P1 anchor to the far right-side of the approach ramp, past the exposed bulge with double 60m ropes.

Approach ramp: scramble in from the far right along the ledge system. Some parties may choose to rope up before tackling an exposed bulge and low fifth-class slab. About 200 feet before the top of the ramp, look for a small cave and inobvious pillar that marks the beginning of P1.

Microcams, RPs, a 0.1/0.2 offset, doubles from 0.2 - 4, and suggested triples of 0.5 & 0.75.