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Prime Time (open project)
5.13 YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks X- UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)
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A Gentlehoe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Back in the Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Canyon Practice Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Black Streak S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blue Collar S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Buffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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El Jefe S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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El Rancho S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hammertime S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Huffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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La Cantina S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Noah's Ark Arete (aka Peer Pressure) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Prime Time (open project) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Respecting the Law (aka Handcrack Corner) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Summertime S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sweatpants in Public S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | open project |
| Page Views: | 321 total · 143/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Mehall on Sep 26, 2023 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Description
In the summer of 2023, I rebolted and cleaned this line with help from Adam Ferro and Eric Dixon. It's listed as a project on an old topo that was at Pine Needle Mountaineering. The bolts were courtesy of ASCA and the sweat equity from the Durango Climbers Coalition.
I finally finished the cleaning in late September and wanted to open up the route to the community. Please let me know if you think the bolts should be moved around. We scrubbed a lot, but it could probably use some more.
I'd recommend wearing a helmet on this one, as there still could be some loose rock. I cleaned off quite a bit bringing this one back to life, and please let me know if you get it done and want to propose a grade. The rock looks similar to the crux of Hammertime, with a longer section of that type of rock. The grade is maybe somewhere on the higher end of 5.13, but as always, it's hard to tell.
Also, please let me know if you originally bolted this route. I couldn't find any information on that.
There is also a variation I bolted that finishes out left that should be less difficult. The holds on the direct finish look very thin.
Hopefully next summer we can finish up this "Time Zone" area by rebolting the Black Canyon Practice Route.
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