[Hide Comment] Video
youtu.be/vYJwyLSKVhs?si=zmQ… Sep 27, 2023

[Hide Comment] I hadnt climbed this in two years, but I bolted this thing like a via ferrata. There are three reasons for its name. I named it after aaron, as I think he placed the anchor. Secondly, aaron spent a year and a half convincing me to come out to helms. Third the hobbit movies took forever to come out after the original trilogy. Apr 15, 2024

[Hide Comment] Super fun. Would be a great first "12" for a gym trained climber. Apr 16, 2024

[Hide Comment] Aldous wrote: Now before I make bold statements I want to preface some things. I am not necessarily against soft Crags, I mostly climb in North Bend which isnt exactly known for sandbagging. I've been climbing since late Spring 2022 and being totally transparent with my abilities, I pretty much max out at 5.11+. I haven't yet sent 5.12 even on TR.
All that being said I can tell you that this is not 5.11d. And for more context I onsighted with prehung draws, I didn't touch any holds, I just hung draws. I think basically everything here should be downgraded but still remain relatively soft.

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Having spent more of my life climbing than you, I can't really tolerate this blasphemy. Having spent a lot of time climbing in Oregon, BC, Vermont and Nevada (unlike you), I have a better frame of reference for climbing grades. The rating system is the Yosemite Decimal System not the Washington Decimal System. I don't think this route would be rated less than 12a in any area that I've climbed. It would be rated at least 5.11d. I prefer to stay with grades that reflect grading throughout the country. I think this route is a letter grade or two easier than Authentic Experience and two to three letter grades easier than Shih Tzu Jiu-Jitsu 3: Return of the Princess. Three letter grades harder than Hobbit Chodes and four letter grades harder than There and Back and There and Back and There and Back Again. I often warm up on Gollum's AssHole doing multiple laps, but if I try to warm up on Wait Time, I'm going to be hanging on the 3rd bolt and 4th bolt, or get incredibly flash pumped. I even injured my middle finger on my left hand climbing this route in cold conditions. I've had lots of finger injuries over the decade on 5.12 and harder routes, but never on a 5.10-11.
Aldous you say the most asinine things. Dec 13, 2024

[Hide Comment] Well interestingly enough, you who is questioning the grade didn't approach the climb ground up (placing draws on lead). Perhaps you're improving. I suggest that you start trying to do harder routes. If you think a route felt easy, then repeat it and see if it still feels as easy. It would be a huge sandbag to grade this route 5.10 or 5.11. It's literally a V3 start. I'm sure that I could think of many comparisons to sport climbs in other parts of the country but you haven't been on those climbs, so there's no point in making those comparisons. I've climbed this route dozens of times and it's never felt easier than 5.11d. If it's so easy then what would you grade Hobbit Chodes and There and Back? I even noticed that you rated Mr Big 5.11c which is comical. I've climbed this route countless times and have it pretty wired, but I still occasionally fall off the crux. I was there for your failed attempt on Orgasmatron which you said couldn't be 5.12. So does that mean you can't get to the anchor on a "not even real 5.12" after hanging and falling? Or do you agree it's 5.12? Dec 13, 2024