Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 40.5515, -111.6545
FA: FKA: John Csukran, Aleksander Holleran, Sam Marjerison - Sept. 23, 2023
Page Views: 724 total · 25/month
Shared By: Sam Marjerison on Sep 24, 2023
Admins: Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Description Suggest change

Saved by the Turf is a great Euro style mixed climb, located about 30 minutes from the top of Hidden Peak. The first ascent was put up in a traditional, ground up style and no bolts were placed on the route. The climb features runout, scrappy climbing in a unique setting. The conditions on the FA were quite thin and the climbing may be much easier with more snow and ice later into the fall/winter. No evidence of previous parties were found until we linked into Center Chute and put the rope away. 

P1 (55m M3 5.8): Climb low angle, slabby terrain up a large weakness left of The Rookie Party. Great turf sticks, fun stemming and minimal protection bring you to a steep and imposing chimney filled with giant blocks. Clip a pin and start a wild traverse out right on steep, positive holds. Continue past another pin and mantel onto the slab above (using long runners here will make life easier). Two Lost Arrows and a selection of small cams are required for the belay. 

P2 (40m M3): Step left off of the belay and traverse into small gulley. Climb great turf and ice up and then back right climbing slabby terrain to a great belay that takes finger sized cams. 

P3: (20m Easy 5th, Steep Snow): Make a few bouldery moves into Center Chute proper and continue up moderate snow.

From here we unroped and climbed about 500ft of steep snow and a short section of AI2/3 to top out onto the ridge. 

Descend down the East Ridge on 4th Class terrain back to the top of Hidden Peak.

Location Suggest change

From the top of Hidden Peak, traverse the ski run Road to Provo down and around a short sub ridge of AF Twin Peaks. The climb starts 300ft left of Pipeline in a large chimney/weakness.

Protection Suggest change

Single Rack of Cams to #1, KB's and Lost Arrows

Photos

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