Saved by the Turf
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British WI3 M3 R
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 40.5515, -111.6545 |
| FA: | FKA: John Csukran, Aleksander Holleran, Sam Marjerison - Sept. 23, 2023 |
| Page Views: | 724 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Marjerison on Sep 24, 2023 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
Saved by the Turf is a great Euro style mixed climb, located about 30 minutes from the top of Hidden Peak. The first ascent was put up in a traditional, ground up style and no bolts were placed on the route. The climb features runout, scrappy climbing in a unique setting. The conditions on the FA were quite thin and the climbing may be much easier with more snow and ice later into the fall/winter. No evidence of previous parties were found until we linked into Center Chute and put the rope away.
P1 (55m M3 5.8): Climb low angle, slabby terrain up a large weakness left of The Rookie Party. Great turf sticks, fun stemming and minimal protection bring you to a steep and imposing chimney filled with giant blocks. Clip a pin and start a wild traverse out right on steep, positive holds. Continue past another pin and mantel onto the slab above (using long runners here will make life easier). Two Lost Arrows and a selection of small cams are required for the belay.
P2 (40m M3): Step left off of the belay and traverse into small gulley. Climb great turf and ice up and then back right climbing slabby terrain to a great belay that takes finger sized cams.
P3: (20m Easy 5th, Steep Snow): Make a few bouldery moves into Center Chute proper and continue up moderate snow.
From here we unroped and climbed about 500ft of steep snow and a short section of AI2/3 to top out onto the ridge.
Descend down the East Ridge on 4th Class terrain back to the top of Hidden Peak.



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