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Goblin Glory

5.12c, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: JF
Arkansas > Northwest Arkan… > Fitzgerald Moun… > Fitzgerald S Area > 2. Swing Station

Description

Just right of Gilbert Grape. Start up an interesting low angle dihedral corner and traverse slightly left to pull the first roof on iron band pockets. Powerful reach up left to a fingerlock sidepull, and trend slightly right through the middle face boulder problem to crimps below the start of the roof. One more big pull out on smaller holds until hitting a good leg ledge and shakeout. Final crank out the steepness with some fairly pumpy reach moves til the end. Feels like a ~v6 from roof to roof, then a sustained finish.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

JF on 'Goblin Glory' .12c/d
[Hide Photo] JF on 'Goblin Glory' .12c/d
JF on 'Goblin Glory' .12c/d
[Hide Photo] JF on 'Goblin Glory' .12c/d
The rope on Goblin Glory
[Hide Photo] The rope on Goblin Glory

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brennan VanDyke
Rogers, AR
 
[Hide Comment] While the existing beta has this thing starting in the dihedral, I started slightly left on the steeper part (like this horsepower). The rock in the dihedral is worse than the surrounding and doesn't seem to want to clean up. I don't think this really changes the grade, but because it uses one different quickdraw, it could maybe be a separate "line". But there's already too many variations on mountain project for this crag.

Going on the left bolt line instead of the right bolt line after the middle boulder makes it a grade harder than borsepower, I think. 12c seems about right, but it probably isnt on the upper end of the grade. Oct 6, 2024